Known throughout the world for all the wrong reasons, Belfast is struggling to cast off its troubled past. Huge funds have poured in since the peace process began in earnest in 1998 and this city of 280,000 souls has been transformed by swathes of redevelopment and renovation, and the creation of leisure opportunities. The tension has gone, replaced with an infectious sense of excitement and dynamism.
The air of optimism comes with a slightly salty taste along the revitalised river where a waterside promenade now links some of the city’s attractions. At its northern end, the twin tower cranes (known as Samson and Goliath) stand high above the Harland & Wolff shipyard where the doomed Titanic was built.
Close-by is the enormous bulk of Odyssey, Northern Ireland’s premier leisure complex, home to a 10,000 seat indoor arena, cinemas, bars and cafes, and W5, an interactive centre where families can unravel the mysteries of science and engineering. To the south are the newly restored Harbour Offices, Custom House, and Albert Memorial Clock; the Lagan Lookout; a public art trail; and the circular Waterfront Hall.
Central Belfast is not over endowed with top-class museums. The Ulster Museum is the only one of note and even that is as much art gallery as museum. However, the city’s difficult recent history is on display in the unsettling partisan murals of west Belfast’s residential streets.
Belfast’s architectural centrepiece is City Hall. From here the main shopping area radiates in a series of pedestrianised streets and covered arcades. Designer fashion is particularly well represented in the city’s stores, as are Irish crafts, jewellery, damask linen and tweeds.
The city’s renaissance is particularly evident in its culinary scene where the emphasis is on Irish fusion, but there are eateries to suit all tastes and budgets. These include Chokdee, Beatrice Kennedy’s, Tedfords, Nick’s Warehouse, Café Milano, Scalini, Roscoff, Cutters, Cayenne and Restaurant Michael Deane.
A new crop of hotels has also revitalised Belfast. Central accommodations include Malmaison, Duke’s, Jury’s, Day’s, Hilton, and Hastings Europa while new boutique style hotels include Benedict’s, Crescent Townhouse and the celebrity-endorsed Ten Square.
Written by: Claire Santry
